Date:June 26^th 2006

Place: Faiha, Mohammed Abdul-Jader’s Campaign Site

We were in Faiha that night at Al-Abdul-Jader’s campaign site. The speakers were inside the air-conditioned tents, with the majority of visitors being men. Women occupied the last few rows. Outside however, there was additional segregated seating for men and women. Huge fans that sprayed cooling mist made it quite bearable to stand outside and watch the speeches on the large screens.

Members of the campaign committee were hard at work, passing around soft drinks and cold water and sweets. On one corner, there was a shawarma stand, where sandwiches were made for the people, free of charge.

The air was charged. I had parked my car far away and walked where I had never walked before, crossing streets, and passing cars. It felt strangely liberating as a woman walking alone in the streets of an area where I had only driven before. Next door to the campaign site was a public hall where a men’s wedding party was held that night. I walked to the campaign site on my own and asked one of the ever attendant committee members where the women’s entrance was.

When I made my way around the back, I was somewhat relieved to join the throngs of women that were still arriving despite the speeches having started an hour before.

Fever-Pitch

Dr. Ahmed Al-Khateeb was going to speak that night and everyone was looking forward to his speech, which came at the very end of the evening. Mishari Al-Osaimi, a former parliament member, was speaking when I arrived, and the air was tense with his words that reverberated loudly into the dark night. Anti-corruption. Electoral reform. And then more words about corruption within the government; worries about this country’s future if there was no reform. A lot of the blame was cast upon the ruling family.

When Dr. Al-Khateeb spoke, it was to support the younger generation of candidates and he spoke much in favour of the people of Faiha district. He spoke fervently against what was happening in the northern oil fields, and warned of great thefts that were being planned to rob this country dry. He urged that petroleum experts like Abdulla Al-Naibari be included in decisions concerning these oil fields – because it all smelled fishy. Something was going on and the Kuwaiti people and future generations would be duped.

His speech went on and on, against corruption, against the thieves in government. It reached a fever pitch.

Maba7eth!

Suddenly, an older man from the campaign committee started shouting from the sidelines. Everyone turned their heads to see what the commotion was about. It seemed to me his emotions were swayed by the continuous speeches against corruption that warned of a big game being played by big fish.

Other members of the campaign committee headed towards him and led him away, so as not to disrupt Al-Khateeb’s speech further. But then, a woman half stood up and called out to a man she knew, exclaiming: “The Secret Service have taken that man away!” This time I looked around smiling. The women in the audience started to become excited but they were quickly reassured that that was not the case; he was led away by his colleagues so as not to cause further disruption and no one had been arrested.

I thought we were on the brink of a hysterical reaction.

The woman next to me asked me what had happened: “He was just impassioned,” I replied very shortly.

More words against the government. Against the ruling family. Against those who steal the people’s money.

Agitation

Two ladies stood next to me. One was swathed in black from top to bottom including her face; the other was also in black but her face was uncovered. They were agitated by Al-Khateeb’s words and in a clearly audible voice said: “And didn’t you steal? Why all this talk against the ruling family? It is shameful; a disgrace. There are Egyptians here, foreigners, and here we are talking like this against our ruling family! Why, in Egypt when people spoke out against the government they were beaten! Shame talking about our government like that! Halalhum let them take whatever money they want! It is not as if all of your buddies are innocent!”

The young girls seated before us, with freshly styled hairdos, turned around and glanced at the women, who made no secret of their dissatisfaction with the speeches that night.

She continued: “They will never find a country like Kuwait or rulers like ours. Don’t they see the other Gulf States? So much bounty, the government provides us with so much, yet they are greedy and all they can do is complain!”

One of my ears was tuned to these women; the other ear was poised towards the speakers to listen to Al-Khateeb’s speech; my eyes in turn flitted between the large screens, to the men, and back to the women, watching their movements.

Getting Closer
I decided to move closer to the main tent and I stood close to the back entrance. There, stood a woman, who I assumed, was the candidate’s wife or someone close to him. She stood there welcoming people and seeing them off as they left, exactly as though they were coming to her house and at her reception. Each woman was greeted warmly, and family members asked about.

And then they were reminded to spread the word and to support the candidate in his campaign.

Finally she turned to me and asked me to step inside but I opted to stand outside in the open air. She asked me what my registration number was and whether I was a resident of Faiha. “No,” I replied. “I am just interested in attending the speeches”

“Ya ba3d 3omri!” She gushed. “Thank you for all your support. I was just asking to see if you were on our contact list that’s all. You are more than welcome here.”

Festive

As usual during all campaign gatherings, there were people of all ages including children. These gatherings had a festive atmosphere. But most eye-catching to me were the women. The assortment of women that night was interesting. In addition to the traditional abaya clad females, there were many with trendy clothes and very alluring makeup – glossy full lips and hair freshly teased at a salon before arrival. And the amount of bare arms and cleavage, plus hipsters, was uncalled for. If you are coming to a mixed gathering in a conservative society, why wear a push up bra and a low neckline?

One of the men commented to me: “Such girls are on the look out for husbands!”

I don’t know.

On the same day, my friend had spent ages at the salon waiting for a hair-coloring appointment. The salon manager apologized and rescheduled her for a midday appointment the next day. “We have too many ladies in for “sechoirs” and styling this afternoon”

I laughed and said “Of course my dear, everyone is having their hair done for the gatherings in the evenings at campaign sites!”

Now what?

The past month was like Ramadan nights, going from campaign site to campaign site, mingling with people, talking, discussing, and feeling alive, feeling a part of the political phenomenon.

After we had finished voting, and the ballots were being counted, a friend came by and said: “We are going to do the rounds now; participate in celebrations at the campaign sites in our area!”

I looked at her in wonder. Where do they get all their stamina from? I was worn out from my voting adventure that afternoon. I would lie on my couch and watch the results at home.

Outside my living room window, loud, thunderous explosions. It could not possibly be a thunderstorm at the end of June! I looked at my husband. He laughed and said, “They are celebrating, don’t worry!”